01/12/2022

Jo Neame: city girl reaching new heights in competition climbing

We talk to Jo Neame about how a youth spent enjoying climbing clubs in London has led to an international career in the sport.

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photo Sam Pratt

When did you first become interested in climbing and what are some of your earliest experiences in the sport?

 

Although I climbed lots of trees as a young kid, I first became interested in ‘proper’ climbing when I went to a friend’s birthday party when we were nine at The Castle Climbing Centre in London. I then joined the kids club Geckos (which I ended up working for a decade later) at the Castle and started climbing once or twice a week.

 

As a London girl born and bred I had very little access to outdoor rock climbing, so during my early years in the sport I only got to do this on the annual Geckos’ trip to Stanage, where I top-roped what the instructors set up.

 

As you progressed in the sport tell us about some of the activities, clubs and competitions you got involved with?

 

After climbing recreationally with the Geckos for about three years I started to take climbing more seriously and got selected for the Castle Competition Squad, a group of young climbers who trained together twice a week, as well as once or twice independently, with the aim of performing well at local youth competitions.

 

I had quick success at competitions, and placed third in my first ever Junior British Lead Championships, aged 13, missing being selected for the GB Junior Team by one spot. It wasn’t until after the competition that I realised the event had been a selection event for the GB Team, but once I knew how close I had been, this became my main goal for the coming years.

 

I came heart-breakingly close to being selected twice more, but finally, when I was 16, I got selected for the GB Team and to my first international competitions.

 

At this time, I left the Castle Squad and began working with a coach one-on-one to try to level-up my training in a more specific way. I worked with Robin O’Leary for the next five years or so, but once Robin moved to the US I found it harder to train effectively, as distance coaching wasn’t working as well as in-person.

 

Almost a year and a half ago I joined Precision Climbing, a team of many of the best competition climbers in the UK, run by Mark and Ellie Glennie and based in Leeds, which suited me perfectly because I now study at the University of Leeds. 

 

photo Sam Pratt

What have been some of your biggest successes in climbing to date?

 

As a youth, my proudest moments were in 2018, when I finished fifth in a European Lead Cup and 7th in a European Boulder Cup.

 

More recently, I finished second in the British Lead Climbing Championships in 2019 and third in 2021.

 

Results aside (as admittedly I have never been proud of my results on the senior international circuit) I had one route which I was particularly proud of at the Edinburgh Lead World Cup this year. The route felt a lot harder than I had expected and I ended putting in a huge fight, made all the more exciting and memorable by having the home crowd supporting me all the way. 

 

Can you tell us about how the sport has taken you on adventures abroad?

 

Through the international circuits, both in juniors and seniors, I have had the chance to travel the world. In 2019, I competed in both lead and bouldering World Cups, as well as the World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. This past year I was selected for the full lead World Cup Circuit, and spent a lot of time travelling in the Alps, to the events in Innsbruck, Chamonix and Briancon, among other comps in the year.

 

I have spent relatively little time rock climbing outside abroad, as my main focus has always been competitions. However, I have been on sport climbing trips to Spain, Italy and Croatia and bouldering in Font. I would like to return to these places as well as many other destinations.

 

photo Sam Pratt

Who have been your biggest mentors and supporters on your journey?

 

My family, in particular my mum, who is the only other person in my immediate family who climbs, have enabled me to get to where I am, supporting me emotionally, financially and, particularly when I was young, in terms of helping me travel around the country and abroad.

 

My current coach Ellie has helped me progress hugely since I’ve worked with her and has helped me a lot with self-belief. Finally, my friend, Nutritionist and supplement sponsor Tom Herbert (@usefulcoach) played a huge role in helping me overcome an eating disorder which I first developed in primary school and was a serious problem for me until only a couple of years ago.

 

What ambitions do you have in climbing for the future?

 
My biggest ambition is to compete at the Olympics one day, and I believe my best chance at this will be in LA 2028, when the disciplines will hopefully be separate and I might have the best chance at Lead. I would love to achieve more success on the international circuit before then, making semifinals and hopefully finals one day (though finals currently feels like a long way off) and I really want to push my grade outdoors. Once I stop competing, I will definitely pursue this and would like to climb 9a. Ultimately, I want to continue enjoying climbing for the rest of my life.
 

photo Sam Pratt

 

Tell us about your presence online and how our readers can find out more about you?

 
I am mostly active on instagram (@jo_robyn) and used to write a blog (http://joneameclimbing.blogspot.com/) although I haven’t updated this in a long time.

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